Greece 2017: Kos to Kalymnos

Posted by The Skibbereen Eagle | August 28, 2017 0

Sunrise over the strait between Kos and the Bodrum Peninsula three miles across the water, between Greece and Turkey, between Europe and Asia, between the Great cities of the Ancient World of Cos and Halincarnassus. Between the birthplaces of Hippocrates “Father of Medicine” and Herodotus “Father of History” — at Continental Palace Hotel.

I was returning to Athens and Islands I first saw as a student in 1976 and to Kos and Kalymnos in the Dodecanese which Jo and I first visited in 1998 inspired by a report by Jill Dando about the “Real Greece” to be found on the Island of Kalymnos, formerly a centre for sponge fishing in the Mediterranean. We had bittersweet feelings going to Athens, KOS and Kalymnos – looking forward to seeing the Plain of Attica I Iast saw in 1976, KOS where my head is and Kalymnos where my heart is. Sad that although we will be seeing many good friends our great friend Bill (Vasilli) William Psaros will not be there to greet us. Bill was the key, the reason we kept going back, the reason we met people, the reason we came to understand Greece and the Greeks, the guy who gave us our love of Greece and the Greeks.

The Asklipeon of #KOS Here and at the temples in Epidaurus and Thessaly the Priests of Asklepia laid the principles of Medical treatment based on observations Auto Optica (autopsy) the evidence of their own eyes by examining the bodies to plot the causes and course of diseases. This is why almost every medical term is #Greek, every physician takes an oath devised by a Priest of Asklepia, Hippocrates of Kos, The Father of Medicine and the Staff of Asklepia entwined with two serpents is the symbol of the Medical Profession #WeareallGreek — at Asklipieíon.

#WeareallGreek — at Limani Kos.

The Asklipieon of #Kos where #Hippocrates practiced medicine — at Asklipieíon.

At the far end of #Kos instead of going to #Kefalos turn right along a road less travelled and where the road runs out there is a small harbour and great views of the north coast and the Island of #Kalymnos and a lovely taverna with great seafood —  at Taverna Limionas.

Thanks for the heads up Costas Sourasis who in his spare time runs the best car hire company in #Kos — with Costas Sourasis at Taverna Limionas.

Helping our dear friend Marjorie Fisher celebrate being 85 years young. Next to Bertie Bassett she is Sheffield’s finest asset!! #happybirthday — at Continental Palace Hotel.

Roadside shrine #Kos — in Kos, Dhodhekanisos, Greece.

#Kos Harbour at sunset with Superfast XII ready to depart for Piraeus via Leros, Patmos and Skyros. — in Kos, Dhodhekanisos, Greece.

It’s Mojito time!! OLE, OLE!!! — at Continental Palace Hotel.

Ted and Marge laughing away the years #youllneverwalkalone — at Continental Palace Hotel.

In mute testimony – Holy Synagogue of the Jewish Community of #Kos 16th Century – 1944 #Shoah #NeverForget — in Kos, Dhodhekanisos, Greece.

The Forum Gate #kostown originally a gateway to the Colacchio, the walled City of the Crusader Knights of St. JOHN. After the disastrous earthquake of 1933 the Italian Occupation demolished most of the Old C13/14 city (a smaller version of the Old City of Rhodes) and excavated the Roman Agora to emphasise the Roman heritage of the Island. — in Kos, Dhodhekanisos, Greece.

Breaking bread and enjoying a lovely seafood lunch by #KosHarbour with dear friends Nikos and Eirini — with Nikos Philippou and Eirini Koutsourai at Yorgo fish restaurant.

Platanos – The Plane Tree of #Hippocrates under which the Father of Medicine is reputed to have taught his pupils fulfilling one the tenets of his Hippocratic Oath to pass on the knowledge of Healing. This place was revered because of the connection to Hippocrates by the Greeks, Roman, The Hospitallers, The Italians and The Ottomans who all embellished the area. The latter with the Loggia Mosque endowed by Hassan al Ghazi, Admiral (Emir al Berb – Lord of the Sea) of the Ottoman Navy. — at Platano Di Ippocrate.


Part of the walled city of the Knights of St. JOHN 15th century #Kos — in Kos, Dhodhekanisos, Greece.

Trees in blossom in #kostown — at Cocoon Cafe Kos.

Oranges in the centre of #kostown — in Kos, Dhodhekanisos, Greece.

Always lovely to stroll through Halluvavia (The quarter of the Halva makers) in the Ottoman Old Town of #Kos — in Kos, Dhodhekanisos, Greece.

Our ferry Superfast XII seen from our hotel balcony making the return from Rhodes to Piraeus via #Kos Lovely ship 

Saying hello to Agios (Saint) Gerasimos in the small private church in the grounds of Continental Palace built by the three brothers who own the hotel in honour of their father. Gerasimos is the Protector of Cephalonia and has done such a good job in the 20th century (apart from Wars, famine, invasion, massacres and earthquakes) the grateful inhabitants take him out for a walk twice a year as he has two feast days. — at Continental Palace Hotel.

The Catholic Church in #KOS Town – originally the church of the Italian Cemetery it contains a monument to the 106 Italian Officers shot by the Nazis and the graves of civilians and soldiers killed when they invaded in October 1943 after Mussolini was deposed and Italy joined the Allies. — in Kos, Dhodhekanisos, Greece.

The Asklipieion of #Kos Birthplace of Medicine. These were Temples dedicated to Asklepios the God of Healing and his daughters Panagea the handmaiden of child birth and pain relief and Hygeia the handmaiden of cleanliness. This place was part Temple, part Sanitorium, part hospital, part Academy on A height cooled by gentle breezes, backed by pine woods and fed by fresh springs where the Priests of Asklepia treated the Holos – the whole person. A cross between Lourdes and the Mayo Clinic it was so renowned in the Ancient World that the physicians to the Roman Emperors always came from here. Here, and at its sister temple at Epidaurus (from which we get Epidaural in English) the Priests of Asklepios turned their backs on superstition and anecdote and developed evidence-based medicine based on examination and observation of symptoms (diagnosis) and treatments with known outcomes (prognosis). They studied the causes and progress of illness (pathogenesis) — at Asklipieíon.

At the Asklipeion no wearing bikinis, no stealing monuments or dancing on pillars! 

Cats of The Asklipieon #Kos 



Remembering at the church of Agios Gerasimos Jo’s mum Emily O’Donovan on her 20th Anniversary and our friends Valerie Bateman, Heather Morton and Bill (Vasilli) Psaros who all passed between Xmas Day and 2nd January. RIP 

The Roman Agora of #Kos 1st Century AD — at Agora-Kos Town.

The Anatolian Hammam #kostown which was once the town brothel and is built on the site of the ancient Citadel. Now you have to visit the Nuns of Platani! — in Kos, Dhodhekanisos, Greece.

Taverna with mopeds #kostown — in Kos, Dhodhekanisos, Greece.

#kostown Minaret from the mosque of Eski Cami which was destroyed in the earthquake of 1933. RAMADAN KAREEM to all the Skibbereen Eagle’s Muslim readers. — in Kos, Dhodhekanisos, Greece.

#Kos today, starting with thunder and lightning and rain. The Gods of Olympus are unhappy but they will be back to normal tomorrow by Zeus! — at Continental Palace Hotel.

The Defterdar Mosque and ablution fountain endowed by the Chancellor of the Ottoman Empire in Eleftherias (Freedom) Square 

Just in case anybody is gloating about the weather in #Kos this morning with thunder and lighting peace has now returned to the Gods of Olympus and once again we are blessed with the rays of Helios. #bluesea #blueskies 

29° today in #Kos with hazy blue sky and sea. How I miss the gentle drizzle of #westcork — in Kos, Dhodhekanisos, Greece.
Marge and Ted getting ready for the long road back to #Sheffield #WhereisNikos 

Victims of war including Infante Ignoto when the Nazis bombed and invaded #Kos October 1943 — in Kos, Dhodhekanisos, Greece.

Grave markers of Italian Soldiers who fell defending #KOS with the British against the invading Nazis October 1943. Their bodies were repatriated to the Military Cemetery in Bari, Italy some years ago #soldatoitaliano — in Kos, Dhodhekanisos, Greece.

Orthodox Cemetery #kostown — in Kos, Dhodhekanisos, Greece.

Telling stories of lives lived and lost – Orthodox Cemetery #kostown — in Kos, Dhodhekanisos, Greece.

Mount Dikeos – The mountain of Kristos Diakos – The Just Christ – which is the highest point on #KOS — in Kos, Dhodhekanisos, Greece.

Entering the amphitheatre which is the harbour at #Pothia #Kalymnos still tugs at the heartstrings as it first did in 1998. This time our great friend Bill Psaros will not be on the quay to greet us. — in Póthia, Dhodhekanisos, Greece.

Too soon it will be  time to say goodbye to the bravest, most resilient, most positive people I know the Greeks.  Our Greek Odyssey had seen us spend a night in Dublin, a night in Piraeus, two nights on a ferry, 9 nights with our friends at Continental Palace in #Kos and finally 2 night’s on the Athenian Riviera.

We have visited 5 islands, #KOS #Kalymnos #hydra #Poros #Aegina and  the Mother City of Athens, the city which gave us Democracy, the Rule of Law, Autonomia, Freedom, Philosophy and Drama – the foundation stone of Western Civilisation.

Yasso and Yammas!



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